Console Table With Faux Drawers
This is a basic table using advanced joinery techniques but anyone can make it. The front has faux drawers and the legs can be bought so no need to turn your own. I set out to make my own table when none of the pre built tables were not tall enough for a sunken living room. This table is 35 inches tall (counter height) and fills the room much better.
You can replace the mortise and tenons with pocket holes making this tables build time a couple of hours.
-To See the table being built step by step please check out my YouTube video above.
4 knoll posts
3/8" Straight Cut Router Bit
2 1X6X1 - 51" Pine
2 1X6X1 - 12" Pine
4 Knoll Posts 35"
3 1X6X1 - 12" Pine
Step 1: Trim Knoll Posts
Make the legs for the table. Standard legs are too short for a counter top height table. I am using stair railing knoll posts (available at any hardware store) and trimming the top and bottom off. I cut them to a total length of 34 Inches. The Posts on the bottom have a large square part. This looks too much like a square block of wood for me, so I routered the edges giving it some shape. I used a 1/2 inch chamfer bit and removed the factory edges.
Step 2: Cutting the Side Boards to Length
The base is basically a square on legs, cut the sides at 12 inches and the front and back at 51 inches.
Step 3: Cutting the Mortise & Tenon
The sides of the table base will connect to the legs using mortise and tenon joints. If you don't know how to cut mortise and tenon joints, check my other post to learn how.
In the knoll posts I cut two mortise pockets 4 inches long. The ends of all the side boards will have a matching tenon.
This is an easy way to join the parts but if you are looking for a quicker easier way to join them just remove 2" from each board and use pocket holes instead.
Step 4: Adding the Faux Drawers
To add the faux drawers I cut 1/8 inch deep lines vertically on the front board. I used a track saw to cut mine but a straight edge with a circular saw works the same. Make sure the blade depth is set before cutting. Use a scrap to check the depth.For my table I made two cuts to make the look of three perfectly cut drawers. We don't need anymore storage so this is an easy way to keep the custom look without the extra work.
Step 5: Glue Up
Glue the tenons into the mortise, the pieces should slide in with some effort. Clamp the pieces together and ensure everything is sitting square as you clamp. Once the the glue is dry remove the clamps. This will form the base to support the top.
I added two cross braces using 12 inch long 2x2's to the bottom of the legs using CA glue. These aren't necessary if you do not want, they just add some extra stability to the table.
Step 6: Painting the Base
Paint or stain the base however you want. My table will be flat black but any color can be used. Paint the base before attaching the top, this will save time later. To get a smooth coat use a foam roller to paint the base.
Step 7: Assembling the Top
The top is fairly simple to make. I took three 1x6 boards and using wood glue, I glued them together edge to edge. Make sure the edges being glued have full glue coverage and clamp them together.
Once the boards are dry remove the clamps. The boards should be longer then the desired top size for alignment issues. Trim the ends of the top to the desired length using a straight edge. I trimmed my glued 60 inch boards down after the glue up for a final dimension of 55 inches.
For my table I routed the front and side edges to give the top a profiled edge.
Step 8: Filling & Stabilizing the Knots
The wood i'm using is wormy white oak, the wood has holes left behind by worms living in the tree. The wood also has larger knots needing to be filled and stabilized. I fill my knots using CA glue and accelerator. This glue can be layered and with the accelerator is ready for sanding in minutes or less.
Step 9: Attaching the Top
To Attach the top I use pocket holes and glue. I put some wood glue on top of the posts and clamp it down to make sure it sits flat and even. Next I use pocket holes drilled into the base sides to draw the top tight to the legs.
I left the top sticking out a half inch at the back so the table top will be flush with the wall, when the legs are against the baseboards.
Step 10: Add the Handles
As the title says drill holes using a 3/16 inch bit and attach the handles to the front of the table. Space the handles evenly in the spaces made by the grooves cut previously with a circular or track saw.
TIP: Drill the holes in the board before attaching the board to the base instead of after the top is on.
Step 11: Enjoy
I hope you enjoyed following along on this build!